2019 KTM 1090R Half season review

I’ve logged 5.5k km on the 1090r before putting it away for the 2020 season. 

What did I think of the bike after a pretty entertaining 5k km of use you ask?  It’s been a riot.  Pictures

Below is a outing to Mclean to sample some of the more technical quad trails.  I did go down one or two single tracks, but smartened up and turned around.  A 500lb bike has no place on single track.

Got 13 minutes to waste?? Video review

I bought the ’90 new in mid July.  Zero km.  Followed a good break in procedure.  Thanks Sean!  Like most of my big bikes, I intend to keep this one for a while. Oil/filter at:

• 50km.  Warm up motor, roll on to 80% of rpm range, and slow with compression braking.  Repeat 9x
• 250km.  Use as normal, no droning.  Up to 7500 RPM
• 1100KM.  Use as normal up to redline
• 3000KM.  Semi synthetic in. 

The good:

• Power…oh my the power.  It’s no multi, but who needs 150 bhp.  It’s spot on.  I’ve been told via reliable sources that it does very good 2nd gear wheelies, and stays at balance point quite well.  Out on the trail, the clutch and motor work very well at low revs, with no flame outs or funny business.  The motor is trackable up to 4k RPM, at which point it gets lively and pulls all the way to the rev line
• Suspension. Very impressed with the OEM suspension.  I’ve got it set as per Sean’s how to, 1/3 out from full closed, all the way round.         How to set suspension…
  • Off road, the suspension give very little thought, i.e. it works as intended.  I had a great day ride to McLean exploring the ATV trails, and had little issues negotiating the roots, rocks, and obstacles.   how to ride off road, badly.
  • On road, the suspension is just as good.  One word of warning.  The rear preload is set very low as standard.  You need quite a few turns from the preload wheel to get it to work with luggage.  But once sorted, it’s a non issue
• Tank size. 23L if memory serves.  Good for 400km on the highway with light/moderate rear wheel steering.  Been averaging between 4.9 to 5.4L/100km (48-43.5MPG) on the highway, and around 5.6-5.9L/100km (42-40MPG) in the city due to mostly to the motor and my right wrist.
  • I did manage a hair over 400km/240mi on a single tank.  I didn’t get a chance to refill it to see how empty it really was.  But to me that’s excellent range for an oem tank.
• OEM contact points: screen, seat, bars, pegs
  • Seat.  Very happy with it.  Good for 200km or so.  I see no need to change it
  • Screen.  Adjustable, which is a nice touch.  I typically run it in the lowest position.  If you’re the barn door type…this is not the screen for you.   The weather protection is not as good as some of the competitors.  Again, easily solved with a bigger/taller screen if you need it
  • Bars.  I wasn’t crazy with the OEM bars.  I ended up running the Tusk KTM bend from RMATV.  Bars
  • Pegs.  OEM pegs are decent.  Wide enough.  What I was after though, is a slightly lower peg.  Rade garage to the rescue
  • KTMs are not known for their switch gear fit and finish.  They are a bit clunky, but function/use is easy enough.  The left hand cluster (up/down/back/set) controls the menu.  It’s intuitive enough, after a few tries.  The set switch seems to stick once in a while.  This will have to get looked at at the dealer.  Hazard switch is in a good spot.  Horn where it should be
• Maintenance/access:
  • Pre filters are easy to get to.  Three screws on each side, and you’re there.  main filter is a bit more of a faff…but 5 extra minutes, and you’re there
  • Oil and filter.  Two drain points, one internal filter.  Easy
  • Chain maintenance.  Even when set at KTM slack, the chain slaps at low revs.  Fix is to go a touch tighter than suggested slack.  Sean just put me on to a cracking way to set chain tension.  Will give it a go, maybe make another shit video in the process
• Odd/fun KTM quirks:
  • Auto turn signal off.  Yep…old geezers rejoice.  Off after 15 seconds while under way.  If parked at an intersection, signal stays on
  • When coasting to a stop, pull in the clutch, turn off the ignition, Motor keeps on chugging till you come to a full stop.  Neat-o!
  • Aux power devices and circuits.  Both the front and back of the bike have separate 10amp (un switched), and 1.5 amp switched circuits.  Well labeled and easy to get to
  • Shift light.  Can be set to your preference.  Plain fun when it flashes at you

The bad:

• • Motor heat.  Rear cylinder throws quite a bit of heat.  Again, where I live, it’s not a bother.  Sure if I’m sitting in traffic in carhartts I feel it.  With my Klim pants, no worries
  • OEM Headlight.  Wow wee…candles in jam jars. Stock L.Beam
    
    Cyclops LED L.Beam. Sorted.

• Requires 91 Octane.  A bit overkill, IMO.  I pump shell 89, with no complaints from the bike.  I’ll pull the plugs this winter and have a look at them
• Electrical add ons.  This is a canbus wiring system.  When installing aftermarket electrical accessories, it has to be like for like.  For instance, I installed a louder horn.  The bike threw a code immediately, due to the different resistance on the new horn.  Old horn went back on.  The above is a non issue if you use the supplied 10amp power supply and switched supply to run your auxiliary items (aux lights, giips, usb)
• Kick stand bolted direct to motor.  Some people have had major issues with this.  Sorted with the Black dog skid plate, and kick stand relocation kit  
• Rear brake, shifter adjustment.  The shifter is a direct bolt on to the shifter shaft.  It cannot be fine tuned like it can on the Japanese competition.  The rear brake pedal is in no man’s land for me.  Too low when sitting, and not high enough when standing.  I may need to spend some money on this Altrider

Accessories bolted on:

• Double take adventure mirrors.  Foldable in case of a tip over.  And removable/foldable when doing technical riding.  Doubletake
• Cycra hand guards.  Very good protection, and they clear the master cylinders.  Cycra F9
• Cyclops LED.  Jam jars.  Fun fact, I was only able to get them via RMATV..Cyclops..why you no sell to Canucks?? Retina burners
• Uni filter/pre filter.  Pre filter is easy to access, and typically needs cleaning.  Uni
• Crash bar bags.  Lomo.  Great place for tools, compressor, and rear stand.  water goes in the other bag.  Lomo crash bar bags
• Black dog skid plate and kick stand relocation.  Very stout plate.  It was on the list from day one.  Not cheap, but damn good. The side stand spring could be a bit less bouncy… BD
• Tail pack.  I decided not to run my large tank bag.  Too much weight up top, and gets in the way off road.  Perfect fit for the rear rack.  Kappa F9
• No center stand.  Only need it in a pinch, and don’t want the extra weight.  Snap jack in it’s place.  Snapjack F9
• Off road dongle.  This got annoying.  Finally picked one up at the end of the season.  Worthwhile.  Dongle.
• SW Motech removable racks.  I’ve had good luck with these on the AT.  As a bonus, I got to save my rotopax mount, and more importantly my Lomo 30L bag mounts that Richhttp://Dongleard built for me to fit right on.  Racks: Racks
• Lomo 30L bags.  Cheap, and functional.  I beat on them last year with the AT.  Will repeat said treatment with the ’90.  Lomo big bags
• Rade pegs. RG
• Leo Vince Pipe.  Half the weight, twice the smiles.  The shouty end

• Profill Australia in tank filter.  Great service from these guys, and a well priced product.  Cheap insurance to keep your in tank pre filter (aka tea bag) clean.