2018 BETA 300 RR Oil Injection wiring check and wiring seal

On our ride yesterday,   the check oil light came one mid ride.   It was intermittent, but had me worried.

There was oil in the line, no air bubbles, and there was blue smoke. More importantly, we rode 20 or so K in some varied snow conditions, and the bike didn’t seize.

I was initially thinking that it was a system malfunction light, when in fact it’s the low oil light (orange arrow) .
Oil injection wire check and seal

Click on the pictures for a more in depth explanation.

Oil Injection system wire check and seal

I’m only looking at the four items circled below on the wiring diagram:
-Low oil switch
-Oil pump
-Diode pack
Oil Injection system wire check and seal

Here’s a few things I found:
-The oil level was low…doooh! I metered the green/white wire,
and had no contact to ground.  Check!
Oil Injection system wire check and seal
-The rear sub wiring loom is pulled through the rear of the oil tank putting pressure on the low oil switch.
This needed to go! Click on the above picture
Gray shows OEM wiring path, yellow new path.

Below, actual oil level triggering the light.
Oil Injection system wire check and seal

I used some 4cm heat shrink to seal all the connectors. I cleaned them 1st with some contact cleaner, let dry then slid the heat shrink over.
Clicked the connectors in, then heat shrunk with heat gun.
Where i couldn’t get it to suck up totally, I either tie wrapped it or squeezed it shut with my fingers.  This was done for the:
-Low Oil switch
-Rear sub harness and all end connections
-Oil pump
-Diode pack

Oil Injection system wire check and seal

I then notched the air box cover and pulled the rear harness over the top
Oil Injection system wire check and seal

Here’s the rear harness pulled over the top, and ready to get tie wrapped and tucked up ahead of the handle.
I also put the low oil wire, and connector underneath the tank to take pressure off the switch.
Oil Injection system wire check and seal

Ok, on to the airbox side.

As found the OEM wiring was in good shape. Click on picture below for full description
Oil Injection system wire check and seal

Condensator was in excellent shape
Oil Injection system wire check and seal

The items were well supported, but the sealing could still be better
Oil Injection system wire check and seal

I broke out the heat shrink and went to town
Condensator was sealed, and tucked inside the sub frame, and tie wrapped. Zero strain on the wiring, and an excellent spot for it.
Diode pack was sealed from the bottom, heat shrunk, then sealed over the top, and heat shrunk. I re-used the mounting hole and secured it to the sub frame
Oil Injection system wire check and seal

Oil Injection system wire check and seal

Topped up the oil tank,fired up the bike, and took it for a short spin. No light, and runs well.  Job done!

Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm, linkage and shock bearing inspection and grease up!

26 K KM on the bike, with about 50% of it off pavement.

Have a look at the pictures 1st. Click the pic below, then hit right for next picture. Full description in each picture.
I was having some technical issues with my canon.
Flash didn’t work, so the pictures are a bit…shit.

Key here is to take your time. It’s all straight forward.
The book of Honder will have all the tasty deets starting on page 18-9.
Have a look at the below, all self explanatory!
Swing arm linkage and shock torque values

I elected to go full hog:

-Remove the rear wheel
-Remove the shock.
My tractive rear shock, needed a clean it, and service the upper heim bearing. It was looking a bit tight, and it was.
Pushed out the spacers, freed up the bearing (weird globe type jobbie).
Greased, and re-assembled. Gave the bottom of the shock a clean.
-Remove the linkage.
I cleaned the faces of the bearings, removed the spacers, and re-greased the bearings. They are captive, so the rollers stay in. This is true for all the bearings on this bike. The bolt that holds the SA to the bearing was a bit of a bitch to get out. It was starting to set in. Gave it a clean, and grease before going back in!
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube

There are bearings on the front of the linkage arms. These are held with the bolt that holds the center stand on. I checked it for play, and it felt fine. I’ll pull this at 50k, clean and grease.
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube

Once linkage is removed, you have good access to the three bolts you have to remove for the rear brake hose and ABS sensor. I’ve highlighted these on the page. Be careful, as there’s a bit of strain put on the lines once the SA is not supported. 2 by 4 to the rescue!
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube

Swing arm (SA) bolt came out without too much fuss. Careful with the rear brake light switch. The spring stick out enough that I scratched my swing arm a touch. I took some needle nose and closed it up. The SA has no holding washers, or funny shit like that. Slowly work it out.
Mine came out easy peasy!
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube

Once the SA is removed, you have quite a bit of room to play with.
I plunked it down on the slab, and cleaned off the crud with a cloth and a bit of WD-40. The seals were in perfect shape.
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube

The bolt had a bit of grease on it, but could have used a bit more.
It was starting to rust in a couple of spots.
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube

Quick once over with the sand paper, and it’s good to go!
Clean around the motor entry, and put a tiny bit of grease once done.
See below pic. You can a bit of rust around the motor.
Helps with the sliding!
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube

Both bearing SA have small cavities within the SA (see pics)
There was a decent amount of grease on the bearings, but next to no grease in the cavities.
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube
They are closed up, so reason would dictate that if one were to put some schmutz in there, it wouldn’t go anywhere. So that’s what I did.
I gobbed on lots of grease, and worked it in.

Before re-inserting the SA bolt, I greased it. Cause you know…
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube

Torque everything back up as per below, or page 18-3. I’ve marked up the relevant torque values for easy reference including the location of bolts.
Swing arm linkage and shock torque values

My rear pads were done. Two sets in 26k. Both OEM pads lasted 13k each. Trying EBC organic pads.
Honda CRF 1000 Africa Twin swing arm and linkage bearing lube

When I was done, I noticed my shit OEM chain guard/slider broke off. No idea when that happened, so I ordered a shiny new one. A proper chain guard.
Should help the chain last a bit longer! Thanks To Mr. S from Oz for the tip!
I forgot what color I ordered!

Drink beer!

Oh my…another SV 650 build

Yep…yet another build…but with a twist…sort of!

My buddy calls it the GSVR 650!

Since the winters here are long and shitty, I’ve decided to give another crack at a SV front end swap.
I did one last year on a 2009 crash victim (not mine, bought from a wrecker), and a busa front end. Turned out ok.  Went well, handled really well with the busa front, and a zx-10 shock out back.

I wasn’t crazy about the converti bars, as I was sort of stuck with the busa top triple, and couldn’t go with conventional bolt on bars.

Pre build:

SV 650 as bought
Post build:

1st ride on the SV

All pictures from the 2009 build here:

I punted the 2009 on the classifieds, and rode my AT.

Fast forward to September 2019, and I’m getting the itch…not that itch..i got cream for that.

As I’m on the local classifieds daily, I found a good deal on a clean ish..
2011 SV 650 ABS, 24KKM, basically ready to ride, complete with:
-GSXR 600 rear shock (un installed)
-Adjustable rear sets of decent quality
-TB black series pipe
-Re valved OEM forks with gold valves (Reg got these in exchange for OEM fork)
-520 chain, one down on front, one up on back (installed by PO)
-Some other stuff. Generally in really good shape.

Bike was perfectly fine as is.  I didn’t care to ride it as is, with the basic suspension.
As bought

The plan was to turn turn it into a fun, well handling commuter.
A few key items were:
-Keep the ABS
-Suspension. Front GSX-r complete front end, and the rear shock.
-It will run a SW motech rear rack with a hideous 45L Givi top box.
I want to stash my shit in it (helmet, gloves, whatever else fits) and walk the two blocks to work)

Complete pictures of build here, will keep adding as I take them.

So, what have a I learned from my last build?

-Get a complete front end.
To solve that, I got a complete 2006 GSXR 750 front end from my buddy Voyko
-Ditch the OEM top triple, and get something proper
Check! The below, courtesy of topyokes.uk
Amazingly well finished, and fit is first rate. A bit slow to get to me (45 days or so) but when it did get here…wow wee!!
Top Yokes install

-I picked up a few things off the SV650 forum, big thanks for the tips
(The big one…speedo pick up sensor faces a certain way…not the pointy end out..) I did wonder why the last speedo was off by 20km/h.. 😦

I did spin the front wheel, and speedo works as intended. I’ll likely run my GPS on this bike as well, so will check how the speedo and odometer function.

Front ABS wheel fit up

-Other stuff from my buddies know how, e.g. motion pro cables, that are 4″ longer and are a direct replacement, unlike the SV650N cables, as they do not fit the throttle tube, and body

-Use the SV650N clutch that fits perfectly, and is more than long enough
Suzuki part # 58200-17G00

-The stainless steel lines needed to be longer for the front brakes.  They were done locally, and while I waited, for less than $100 for two lines.
They bolted right up to the existing steel lines to/from the ABS pump. I vacuum bled the system, and it feels pretty good.
New SS lines from Greggs distributors.  While you wait at a very good price!

-The front end slid right in…after we got the correct wheels/spacers/calipers sorted..I did start with floaty disks, and ended up with a gsxr front.  The below was a mish mash of GSXR forks, and TLR wheel, which has a different width.  With the spacers I had, it wasn’t going to work.
New front end!
After some calls, and fiddling around, a full gsx-r front end was fitted, including a matching wheel.
Top Yokes install

-ABS pump, and the GSXR 600 shock fit together well. I had to space the ABS tray down a touch, but otherwise, all good. Lines reach/fit, with zero issues.
I did turn both wheels above 5k on the bench, and the ABS light cleared.
All good!
GSX-600 Rear shock and ABS

I will fit an ABS off switch, when I’m feeling frisky, and want the full powerrrr of the GSXr front end..sort of like this
Relay switch for ABS or TC_001

Bars.  I had some renthals on my AT that I pulled  and swapped and installed on the SV. The Renthals still give a nice flat bend, and clear the fairing.

Overall, the build went very well.  Besides making a small mistake on ordering OEM throttle cables (see MP cables above), everything reached, bolted as intended.

Bike looks clean, and damn near stock, save for the front blurpie wheel.  Doesn’t bother me.  I may have the rear painted next winter to match.

Right! It’s looking saucy!  I’m down to the rear SW motech rack.

Top triple turned out awesome!


Klim knick knack back pack and what’s stuffed in it

I’ve not been dirt biking long, but I quickly realized that I needed to carry some amount of tools, and assorted items with me on each and every ride.

I first started with a simple smallish bag, that had a hydration bag, room for snacks, and some very rudimentary tools.
Once I actually got serious about dirt biking…read: not falling off every 10 feet, I started looking for a better bag to take dirt biking with me.

Since I’m cheap, a Klim bag came up on sale so I snagged it. I’ve owned it for three years or so. Zero issues with the zippers, stitching, and buckles. For the life of me, I have no idea what it’s called, but the below is likely the replacement.

It’s well put together, and well thought out.

It’s split into two zippered pockets (Top and bottom).
Original tool pouch was clipped between the top and bottom pocket.
I found that the weight of the tools that far away from my back, didn’t sit well. I moved the tool pouch to the top inside pocket meant for the water bladder.

Top pocket contains a large back pocket to hold a hydration bladder. This is where the tool bag now sits.
The front of the top pocket has quite a bit of room for other items. My 3L water bladder fits there nicely without moving around too much.
Top pocket also has a separate small zippered pocket for keys, insurance etc.
The bottom pocket is sizable enough for a basic 1st aid kit, comes with a nice goggle holder. This is where most of my snacks, spot connect, ends up.

The separate tool pouch holder has good compartments, and tool holders.
It comes with two zippered pockets on opposite ends, where small items can be kept.
It’s a well padded bag, with chest and gut clips to keep all your stuff close to your body. It ticks almost all of my boxes.
I have room for my tools, water, snacks, and emergency items.

So what do I have for tools? Basically I went over my dirt bike and figured out what tools I would need to repair it trail side. More importantly, think about the shit you might need that will get you out of the woods, preferably on your bike, and not having to push the bastard out.
I gathered up the items needed to remove the wheels, tank, and various fasteners that I would need to screw with, in case..you know I need to fix my carb for example.
Here’s a few other items to consider to go into the bag with you. Wood saw. I use a Silky saw. A great folding saw made in Japan. Great at cutting up to a 12″ piece of trail blockage.
A tracking/emergency device (see overpriced, and quite frankly a rip off at this point) Spot device..my yearly bill just came, it’s now over $300 Canadian tire dollars)