Right…it’s colder than cold lately, -30C this morning. Perfect time to head to the garage, with three layers of clothes on, and do some more work on the Africa Twin.
Today’s project, install the Outex kit. For those of you living under a rock, the Outex kit converts any tubed rim, into a tubeless set up. Magic.
I’m not going to rant about the AT having tubes, or the pluses/minuses of tubes/tubeless rims etc..I wanted tubeless tires. I don’t want to fuck around on the side of the road by myself trying to break a bead on my rear tire, when I can plug it in 5 minutes on a tubeless and ride on. I’ll still carry tubes and irons with me in case I dent the rims badly enough to warrant tubes as a repair.
This is a blog post. The below is a rant by a semi competent half wit. Don’t take my words for it, the below is meant to be helpful, and to illustrate my experience with the Outex kit. Personal experiences will vary. The instructions are decent enough. More on that later.
If you’re lazy, or illiterate, you can oogle all the pictures here:
My plan was to pull the wheels off, bring them into the house, and do the work there. Even with a heater, the garage was at 5C today. The house at 18C. The house wins!
Rear wheel was first. I tried to break the bead with my motion pro tire bead breakers. Wasn’t going to happen. Yeah it’s fucking cold, even though I was working next to a 30A heater. Out came the tire changer. Used the bead breaker, and the bastard gave easily enough. Peeled the rear tire off, and remounted the rim on the axle to give it a clean. Notice the nice ridge on the rear rim. Nice! My first screw up of the day. I forgot to use sand paper to rough up the rim. Instead went straight to go and tried to collect my 200 dorra…muppet. Right, rear rim, tire stand (made by Borat) In the house for the rim to warm up, and on to the front tire. A little segue about Honda quality. Some of the bolts on this bike are really fucking cheap. Out of the six that hold the fender on, two stripped. Yeah I was using the right 5mm allen key. They are made from imitation american cheese. On a positive note, the fender doesn’t have to come off! Take both calipers off (14 mm) Loosen off the left side pinch bolts (12 mm) and undo the 22 mm nut. No need to worry about the big allen on the other side, as the right side pinch bolts are on. Once the nut is loose, undo the right side pinch bolts, slide the axle out, and remove the front rim
Moar bead breaking action. The front came off super easy…not sure if that’s a good thing.. No ridge on the front tire…damn.OK, on to warmer locales! I’m set up in the house, got the blessing from the boss.
Do not drink beer prior to doing the work. You are guaranteed to fuck it up royally!. It’s tough enough to do it sober, and with someone helping you. My wife volunteered!
You will need the following stuff:
- Tire stand. You will not have a good time without one. The one I used was my ghetto paddock stand for my enduro bike. I simply cut the middle out, and bodged up an axle holder with some conduit straps.
- 200 grit sand paper
- Scissors (don’t run with them!)
- Olfa knife, with a sharp blade
- Heat gun, or blow dryer.
- tire iron (rounded) for front rim, and a small pry bar for the rear rim
- Clean rags
- An assistant…this should be on the top of the list. It’s difficult to do this on your own
Right, let’s get going! Rear rim first. I’ll go step by step according to the Outex instructions STEP 1: Sand paper the rim. Really only need to do the area where the tape will sit. Take your time, and be extra pedantic (read: anal retentive) around spokes nipples
STEP 2: Clean off moisture, and dirt using acetone. If you have a white rag, as you clean, it will show
STEP 3: use the round pre cut seal tape on each nipple. Top tip, use your heat gun to adhere the tape to each nipple. The heat shrinks the tape a bit, and gets the outer edges stuck to the side of the nipples STEP 4: Use heat to warm up the rim. Since the rim is warm from the ambient temp of the house, I get to skip this
STEP 5: Apply one side of two sided tape. Fuck me with a wooden spoon, this part sucked!! Trying to get the tape to sit straight, and without air bubbles on the first go was a TPITB!!
STEP 6: Cut the tape at one revolution. Don’t overlap
STEP 7: What I found is that the tape is stupid strong, so with your lovely assistant helping you out, take a flat piece of metal (I used a small pry bar for the rear rim, and a rounded tire for the front), with heat from the heat gun or blow dryer aimed directly at the rim, slowly push down on the tape between the spokes to work the air out. Eventually all of it goes out. Yipeee!!
STEP 8: Cut the hole out carefully, push the valve through to the outside. Remove the valve
STEP 9: Start the tape as shown, install valve finger tight
STEP 10 through 17: Nothing to report here. Follow the instructions, go straight…Rear rim tape went on straight enough, as there’s some room. The front rim was a bit more crowded but easy enough
Top tip, remove the green tape at about two spoke lenghts at a time, that way the tape stays strong
STEP 18: This is critical, it’s a re do of STEP 7. Go through the rim with both tapes on, and your overlap tape. Have your assistant heat the rim, and the pry bar/tire spoon. Slowly work out the air, and use the pressure of the tools to further glue the tape on the rim
You are done! Put the beer down fozzie bear!!…we’re done the Outex install.
The tire needs to go on next in order to put pressure on the tape.
I spooned on the rear tire in the house. Went on easy enough. Over to the garage, popped the bead on, checked pressure. Left it at 42 PSI, and brought it back in the house. Ditto for the front, set at 30 PSI.
and the set
- The kit is easy enough to follow, and install. It’s made well, and there was a bit of spare material left over (kits are bike specific)
- You need a second set of hands to do this properly
- The heat gun/dryer is a must
- Don’t do it in the cold as it will not end well
I’ll let the tires sit overnight, check tire pressure tomorrow, and re-install.