well, here I go again, trying in vain to improve my previous posts.
I’ll keep this one short, with some additional info that may help some of you.
You will need these tools:
- You…the biggest spanner of all
- Yammie manual, must have!
- Spring compressor is a must for USD forks. $40 from Traxxion dynamics
- Level cyringe $20-30 from the local bike stealer. You can make your own if you’re a cheapskate
- 43mm fork seal driver. Roughly $50 from the stealer. Again, you can make your own…see cheapskate comment above.
- 1L of fork oil. 5w is OEM recommened. If you’re errmmm big boned, try 7.5W
- Electrical tape!!! trust me, it’s needed
- Two tie wraps, again read on.
- Beer, or girly drink of choice, once manly job is done. For the love of god…do not drink prior to finishing job, or you will screw it up
First off, the 1200 has USD forks. With these bad boys, you need a $40 spring compressor to ease your life. Without it you will end up breaking shit that was not meant to be broken. Ask me how I know.
Here are the steps:
- Pull the forks, and wipe off any excess grime, and dead things.
- Take some electrical tape, and tape it loosely around the 14mm pre-load nut. Back the preload in, till about 2 lines of preload are showing. Get your 24mm socket, and while the fork is in your vice, with wooden blocks, spin the top off. Once that’s done, back the preload all the way out, so the pressure on the spring is low.
- Put the fork upright in the vice. Get your spring compressor out, and compress the fork till the 14mm nut is showing. Grab a 17mm wrench, and break the two. Spin the top cap off, and slowly take the tension off the spring. Set the plastic collar aside.
- Pull the whole thing apart, leaving the damper in the bottom tube. Pump all the old oil out. At this point I usually dump in about 250ml of varsol into the bottom leg, pump it through the damper, and pump out all the excess. Hang it upside down and leave it aside for re-assembly
- Remove the dust cap (slide it down to the bottom of the fork) remove the snap ring. Holding the fork upright, give the bottom fork tube a few good tugs (joke joke), the whole thing will separate. and should look like the pic below.
- I wash all my fork components in varsol. In this case, the oil was original from the factory, and had a silvery sheen to it from all the metal that it collected. Best to wash off as much crud as possible. Let dry prior to re-assembly.
- Ok, we’re ready to install the new fork seal. How the hell do you put the seal on without damaging it? Well you need a fork bullet. WTH is a fork bullet? Think of it as a hardened rubber (hardy har har) but being a cheapskate, and having shitloads of electrical tape around, I simply wrap the fork with elec. tape, and on she goes. Don’t forget to lube it for easy of entry (thank you thank you, I’ll be here all night, and please, don’t forget to tip your waitress!)
- Remove the tape, and break out your 43mm fork seal driver. Use this to drive in the new outer bush first.. Dead easy, a couple of good whacks will seat it, and the sound will change, once you’re bottomed out. Install fork seal.
- Now on to the oil. Yamaha states 150mm of room, with fork collapsed, spring and guide out. Pour in the oil, and stroke the damper to get all the air out. You will feel resistance, as all the air comes out. Once sorted, slap the fork in the vice, you’re on your way to re-assembly.
- Ready for re-assembly.
- With the fork upright, throw the spring in. If you’re keeping the stocker as is, the coiled end of the spring goes up. You cannot cock this up, as the spring guide fit in one way only.
- Compress the spring till your 14mm nut shows, install the top cap, and tighten down. Slide the fork outer up, and spin the cap on. Increase preload, so two lines are showing. Use some elec. tape again, before you slap the 24mm socket on. You are done one fork leg.. repeat for other! Yay!