Tenere Swing arm lube rev. 01

Feel free to refer to my earlier post about the Swing arm lube. https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2013/02/17/swing-arm-lube/

Today’s post will have better pics, and some more insight.  The whole job should take 1.5 hours from wheel off to wheel on.

Here’s a link to RTW Paul’s excellent write up with some very good pics:


Remove the rear wheel, and pumpkin.  Remove the heel plates/kick plates.

Remove the exhaust.  top tip: When removing the exhaust, have a open ended wrench on the bolt, and a 14mm socket on the nut.  Spin the nut off and not the bolt.  It’s fragile.  Nothing else needs to be unbolted.  Remove the rubber boot from the swing arm,  the swing arm will break loose of the shaft knuckle.


Remove the shock linkages, and bottom bolt/nut of the  shock

Remove the large main bolt (27mm nut).  I used a snipe to get this one off.  Push the shock as far as it will go and remove the swing arm.


once the links and shock are freed, you can inspect the linkage bearings. Unfortunately the last bolt holding the linkage cannot come out unless the exhaust is unbolted out of the way. I cleaned and greased what I had access to. Notice that the rubber boot stays on the motor side of things with no issues.


Shock, swing arm and linkage unbolted (except for one bolt blocked by exhaust pipe


Here’s what I found.  The main bearings of the swing arm were in decent shape. I cleaned them up, and re greased them.  I think it’s because they come with caps at each end to keep the grease in, and the crap out.  Inner race was in good shape, so I dunked the caps and inner race in some kerosene, dried,  wiped it down, and readied for re-assembly


Main inner race and end caps before cleaning.


Main bearings. No play, and they spun freely. Cleaned them out, reapplied grease, and put the end caps back on. No real drama here.

Right, for the lower swing arm bearing, and linkage bearings.  My last swing arm lube was on my bike at mere 22xxx km or so.  Dennis did not touch his since he bought his bike, which now has 60xxx km.  BREAKING NEWS:  Yellow stuff good…Information I could have used yesterday 🙂


This is what the bearings looked like. They had this yellow crud imbedded between the rollers. They didn’t spin freely. Not good. THIS JUST IN!! Apparently, I’m a complete tool. The yellow stuff is embedded grease, or something along those lines. Leave it in, just clean the crap off.


Bath time then…


Bolts were seized to the inner races. Pried them off gently, and washed the lot.


Post wash, the yellow grime slowly came out. MOAR UPDATES: Yellow crap good….Me not so smert! leave the stuff in next time. Learn from my mistakes kids!


I gave it a helping hand…even though I wasn’t really supposed to do it. Oh well.


Inner races were in good shape, with no scoring or scratches. Cleaned them up, re greased the bearings, slid the races in, and slapped the whole thing back together.

A wise man told me this.  Even if the small roller bearings don’t spin freely, they barely move (roughly 1/8th of a turn during use).  As long as your inner races are not scored, or damaged, the little ‘rollers’ will not go anywhere.  Best way to check is to clean/grease/reassemble and check for play.  If there is no play.  Put it back together and ride the damn thing.

Re-install is the reverse of the errmm…dammit..Re-assembly is the reverse of Disassembly.  There we go.

Torque everything to specs, reinstall the pumpking, and the rear wheel.


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