Right. So the below write up is thanks to some good guys over on the various FZ9/MT09 forums. I’ve expanded on some of the ideas for clarity, so if others feel so inclined can follow.
So my three biggest gripes about the fuzzy9 are as follows
ONE: Lack of wind protection. Yes I’m fully aware that it’s a naked bike, but speeds above 120 km/h are a literal pain in the neck. Problem solved with the MRA Vario touring screen from TT. The spoiler is adjustable and does an excellent job of keeping the wind at bay and the bike usable out on the open road. It works for my 5’9″ frame. The fitting it was a snap, and it fit with the stock turn signals nicely, making them look smaller, and less gawky. Screen sorted.
TWO: Seat. After my quite enjoyable 3000 or so km on the 9, the seat basically broke my fat ass. It’s a roomy seat, not too grippy or slippery, but the slope. Good grief. Based on a post from one of the FZ9 forum members I replaced the stock seat bumpers (roughly about 3/8″ to a 3/4″ bumper) with little effect. When I got home, I went one further with the cheap, or in my case free seat mod.
Here’s what you need:
- A grout sponge. I scored mine for FREE! Yes when you have connections like I do, you can get free shit, like grout sponges. Thanks Fred, you’re the best man.
- A upholstery stapler gun for re-fastening the stock vinyl seat cover
- Patience, and time. Don’t rush it, because you will screw up your stock seat cover, and then need to get it fixed by a professional seat upholsterer guy or gal.
- Small flat blade screw driver, and side cutters to cut the stock staples
Here’s what you do. Put the seat on a flat clean bench upside down. I Only removed the staples about halfway up the seat. No need to go any further. Take your time pulling out the stock staples. Once done, pull off the stock foam (mine was held in with about 4 or so staples). Take your FREE sponge and place it length wise on the seat (front to back). Your free sponge will go between the seat pan, and stock foam.
Replace your stock foam, and staple in place. Take the stock vinyl cover, and pull it over the front of the seat. With the vinyl pulled firmly start stapling the seat back. Keep the staples as high up inside the seat as possible, this will prevent them from going through, and piercing the seat vinyl on the other side. Take your time, and it will come out pretty decent.
This will eliminate the slope of the seat, and make the bike a lot more rideable.
THREE: Exhaust. There’s not a lot wrong with the 9’s stock exhaust. Yes it’s heavy, but it’s down low. More importantly it’s able to survive the zombie apocalypse. Two things are keeping me from pulling the trigger on an aftermarket system:
- one, price. Sorry, but to have to drop $900 on a full system that needs to be repacked every 10,000km or so is simply not my thing. I love a good aftermarket exhaust like the next guy, but there’s a better way (read: CHEAPER). A nice man from S.L.U.T (Salt Lake UTah) found a way around that. Moar of that below
- Since the bike will be used daily, I need it to be fairly quiet, but not too quiet. Waking up the hood at 545am is not a good thing.
- As mentioned above..repacking the aftermarket can. This thing is under the bike, getting crapped on by both wheels. It will see a lot of action, and will need attention. The stock muffler needs a wipe, once in a life time.
- Cost. Hell if this mod does not suit your taste, after you’re done with it, leave it, and move on to a aftermarket exhaust, or chop your stock headers past the OD sensor and go for a slip on. If you play your cards right, it will not cost you much.
What you need:
- A welding machine, or better yet a buddy that you did some work for, and now he’s doing the welding for you for FREE!
- Some 2″ OD pipe (18 gauge or 16 is perfectly fine)
Here’s what you have to do:
- Remove the muffler from the bike
- Take off the three allen screws that hold the finishing tip on
- Cut the stock pipe at the second weld (closest to the muffler). Don’t be a muppet and cut it flush with the muffler (as I have done) thus creating a whole lot more work than really needed.
- Clean up the cut, and weld on roughly 6″ of pipe. You will need to squish the end of the pipe to resemble the finishing tip opening. Tack it in four places Fit your finishing tip to make sure the whole thing lines up.
- mark up where you want the tip cut off, and errmmm cut it off.
- As mentioned before, I was a tool, and cut the pipe past the weld. This basically cocked things up, and made it difficult to do the welding. We ended up cutting the 2″ pipe about 3-3.5″ away from the muffler body, and not bothering to have the exhaust tip coming out of the finishing tip.
- I reinstalled the whole thing, took it for a rip, and I’m pleased. The sound is louder, and deeper. You can hear the bike run, as intended. No heat issues to speak of, if the current set up annoys me. I’ll go down to the local crappy tire (automotive store to you non canukistanis) and buy the next size smaller exhaust pipe, fit it into my current exhaust pipe, and have the tip exiting out as per OEM set up.
FOUR: Tank size. Nothing I can do with this one. I have a good tank bag, that mounts/dismounts easily. I’ll mostly be a city bike, so the tank range doesn’t bother me. It didn’t bother me in California, so we’re good there.