FZ9 Fork spring swap tutorial and how not to.

Well, the springs showed up from SToletch, thanks Nick.

Below is a brief write-up on how to pull your stock springs out, drain or replace the oil, and to put it all back together.

Tool you will need:

  • 14mm Allen Wrench for the main axle
  • Assorted allen keys for the pinch bolt, and the fork triples
  • Various spanners of your choosing
  • 24mm socket for the fork cap
  • Fork spring compressor (check ebay: traxxion dynamics, best $45 you will ever spend)
  • Fork Oil Level syringe tool
  • A beer, after the work is done.

Usual BS disclaimer.  It’s a write-up on how I did the forks.  I have no book to go by, so I’m guessing half the time.  I can’t even put my bike on the rear stand without dropping it.  😦

Anyways…Crack all your bolts/nuts prior to lifting the front end up.  Loosen the axle pinch bolt, axle, take your calipers off, and take some tension out of our pinch bolts.  Don’t loosen them all the way.

Insert your front end lifting device here.  Front stand, a phone book under the engine, pet turtle, some tie downs off the rafters…whatever, as long as it’s safe and solid.


Remove the fork and place it in the vice


TOP TIP!  crank the preload part way down, so your socket can sit nicely on the top cap.  As a precaution, I wrap some tape around the top nut, not to bastardize it the first time.  Once you reassemble the fork, there will be no force to overcome the next go round.  Crack the top cap with the 24mm socket.

After using my spring compressor to compress the errrmmmm…spring, you will need a 17mm for the top cap, and a 14mm for nut.  Remove the top cap, plastic spacer thingie-mabob and set it off to the side.



I didn’t know the initial volume that the fork takes.  I took out aboot 400ml.  No Matter.  Stroke the damper on the right fork leg till as much of the old fluid comes out.  For a proper clean, undo the bottom allen key holding the cartridge in the fork.  I did not do this, as there was really no need.  I just wanted to put in the .90 spring, and as much new 10W oil as possible.

Moving on.  Spring out, put your new 10W oil in.  Pour in about 400-500ml, and then use your home-made oil level to measure out 148ml out of the fork leg.  As Nick said, no need to know how much goes into each fork, as long as your level is accurate.  Stroke the dampener to get all the air out of it.  Once you have good resistance, you know it’s got oil in it.  Once done, insert spring, tie a tie wrap to the end of the rod, pull the tie wrap through the plastic spacer, and put your spring compressor on.  Compress spring, and thread your top cap on.  Use your 24mm socket to set the top cap snug.

Re-insert fork.  Repeat on left fork, which is even simpler still.

Torque values used are approximate. I pulled these off my Super tenere book, pretty sure they are close.  If you know the exact numbers, post up, or leave me a comment.

  • Main axle 60 FT-LB
  • Main axle pinch bolt 20 or so FT-LB
  • lower triple clamp 20 FT LB
  • upper triple clamp 26 FT LB
  • Brake caliper bolts 28 FT LB
  • Right fork leg level 147-148 mm from the top of the fork tube (fully compressed spring out)
  • Each leg takes approximately 500ml of fluid when empty

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