I was due for fork oil. Back in 2012 I did a write up that was well detailed, but with shit pictures.
This time, I broke out the cannon and did it right. While the forks were off, I pulled the triple tree out, gave it and the bearings a good clean, and re-assembled the front end.
The wheel got a look in as well. I pulled the discs, cleaned the larger crud out of the dust seals, and applied as much grease as I could.
If you want to bore yourself to pieces, more fork related reading here: https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2012/12/26/fork-rebuild/ Usual disclaimer. This is only a guide, if you read my written diarrhea and break something, don’t come crying my way.
One tool that is imperative to do this job is a spring compressor tool. If you don’t have one, beg borrow, or steal one. It will make the job sooper easy.
Also, a level measuring tool is handy. You can do without one, but again see above comment.
Crank compression all the way to max, and preload all the way to minimum, this will make things easier.
The usual applied. Pulled the forks off, tossed one in the vice and went to town. I usually take the top cap off first, and drain out the bulk of the fluid out.
Once that’s gone, I breakout the allen key, and my cordless impact, and undo the bottom bolt.
To do the job properly, you will need to compress the spring, and take the fork apart. I bathe all parts in kerosene, to get all the crud off. Air dry, and wipe down before re-assembling.
Re-assemble the fork, with the damper only. Pour in approximately 350ml of fluid. Stroke the dampener, until all air bubbles come out (you will get a nice fluid motion while pulling the dampener up and down)
Install a small tie wrap on the threaded end, and install the spring. Put the collar on, and compress away.
Steering Head bearings, and triple tree.
This one is super easy. Cover the tank with a rag. Crack both top for pinch bolts. . Break out the err….mmmm 27mm socket If I remember correctly, and undo the top nut. Set the handlebar, and top clamp to the front of the bike, and break out the precision flat blade beater screw driver. Keep track of how it all goes back together.
Off to the home depot bucket for a bath.
Clean the races, and inspect for damage. Mine were perfect. Yamaha uses some nice roller bearing, once cleaned, they were ready to go back in.
Re-assemble the lock rings, make sure there’s no play in the tree, and snug up the bottom lock nut. Rubber gasket between the lock nuts, and weird washer, with the tab, to hold both lock nuts in place.
Finger tighten the top nut. Slide the forks in, and do up the top pinch bolts, but not to torqued spec yet.
Wheel bearing check, spoke check, and clean.
I went a bit overboard here. The disks can def. stay on the rim, no need for them to come out. But I had time, and it’s way easier to ping and adjust the spokes as needed, with the disks out. I tie-wrapped the spokes for security. Not too tight as to pull on them.
Cleaned out the grime from the dust seals that protect the bearings, and applied a bit of grease, and re-installed the disks.
Wheel back in, I put the axle through, installed one of each pinch bolt on the bottom tree, and gave the bike a few bounces for everything to settle. Tightened all pinch bolts to torque spec, axle, axle pinch bolts, top bolt on the top tree (94 ft-lb).
Put the fender on, brake calipers, and odds and ends. Torque down.
Drink beer. 🙂