I have been meaning to get around to this, mainly because the stock turn signals are a bit bouncy and large, and because I melted one of my rear signal, and needed a replacement. The plan was to delete the front stock signals, and move the signals to the hand guards, as well as a running lights.
I bought the LED’s strips at the local nerd store, pretty slick units, that can be had in any length, and about 5 different colors. The LED’s come with 3M adhesive on the back. I went with a 5 section amber for the turn signals, and a two section cool white for the running light (each section is about 1.25″) See picture with tape measurement. Install was a bit labor intensive, but straight forward. The led need to wires soldered on to them, and then cover over with a short piece of heat srink. I used 16 ga. speaker wire, then unplugged the stock turn signals, cut the wires off, and re-used the male connectors. More heat shrink to cover the butt splices over, and some of that split plastic tubing to cover the wires. (as shown in pic) the flash is a bit fast, so either a resistor will go in, or a led specific flasher unit that Red Cat suggested.
I got out to the garage today to pull off the rear tail section, and gain access to my melted turn signal. Upon closer inspection, yamaha did not provide any quick disconnects for the rear turn signals/lights etc.. it’s an absolute bastard trying to get those wires out. Having broken out my wire strippers, I cut into both left and right signals, I will install proper weatherproof quick connects tomorrow, along with a 60W 6 Ohm resistor (will double check tomorrow), this will get the flash rates to where they need to be. each side will need a resistor. Here is a pic of the left hand side. five sections of amber led’s and two of the cool white:
Close up of the left hand guard
White LED on
Amber and White LED’s on
Overall shot of bike, Denali’s on, both LED’s on
Here’s a single section of LED. This happens to be the cool white I had left over. If you look on the left of the LED, there’s a + and – that needs to be stripped back, to expose the copper, you then tin some soder on, and soder on your wires. Please spare me your comments on my shit sodering 🙂
So yesterday, I went back to the garage to install the 50W 6 ohm resistors for each side. I like my bike a lot, but it’s a bit daft of Yamaha not to provide you with quick disconnects for the turn signals. The wires go from the turn signals all the way to the battery area, so if I actually wanted to install resistors in there somewhere, I would have to do it there, and god knows it’s crowded enough.
It worked out well enough since I melted the left turn signal some time ago with my first pipe, so I simply ID the right wires, and cut them at a good location.
I mounted the resistors in the center of the tray, soldered on some short wires, and brought them near the male/female water proof connectors I was going to install.
In retrospect, I would have not used the male/female connectors, as they were a bit of a pain in the ass. I don’t think I will be in there again, unless I have to change the rear t.signals to a LED, and I doubt that will happen.
I ended up soldering the connectors and wires together so they would not separate, locked them in place, and tie wrapped the whole thing together, tested, all works as desired.
I’ll keep tabs on the front LED’s and see how they hold up, if and when they crap out, ill probably go to the yamaha jobbies for the front only, it will be a straight forward swap, since the hard part (resistors) are already in place.
Above pic: 50W 6 Ohm resistor. Can be had at any decent electronics store. Idea here is that since we removed one of the regular bulbs, we need to simulate the load on the circuit.
Below are the connectors I used, again a bit fiddly, but it will allow me to disconnect the circuit if I need to. Not sure when I’ll need to do it, next time i’ll be butt splices, and some heat shrink, job done.
Below, both resistors, and quick connectors installed, wired, tie wrapped.
Above pic: overall shot, below right shows the CO mod (white wire) which runs over to a fuse block, which in turn is grounded.